Corinne CrawfordArriving in Malta late at night, I splurged on a expensive Bolt ride from the airport, didn’t want to try my luck with buses at that late hour, plus I didn’t even know if they ran that late, but by midnight I was finally checked into my large apartment in Sliema and ready for bed. The business-class seat on the flight over turned out to be one of the better decisions of the trip. I’m honestly not sure I can go back to regular economy for long-haul flights now. Having a fully flat seat, real silverware, endless good food, and enough room for all my stuff made flying feel almost civilized. More importantly, I was actually able to sleep for most of the flight, which made arriving in Malta far easier than usual. Of course, when I later checked what it would cost to upgrade on the flight home, reality quickly stepped in and reminded me that I can, in fact, survive a regular seat.
Even with the decent sleep on the plane, jet lag eventually caught up with me anyway.
My first day in Malta was intentionally slow. I stocked up on groceries and basic provisions so I could cook most of my meals at the apartment. It saved both money and time, which felt worthwhile considering how easy it is to burn through a travel budget by eating every meal out.
Later that afternoon, I took the ferry from Sliema across the harbor to Valletta. Malta’s capital is dramatic even on approach — a fortified city rising out of the sea with massive limestone walls built by the Knights of St. John after the Great Siege of 1565, when the Ottoman Empire unsuccessfully tried to conquer Malta. Valletta was essentially designed as a military fortress city from the ground up, and walking through it still feels like wandering through a giant defensive stronghold.
I visited the Norman House and the Inquisitor’s Palace, which was both fascinating and slightly unsettling. The palace served as the seat of the Roman Inquisition in Malta for over 200 years, and the exhibits do a good job explaining how religious authority shaped daily life during that period.
Originally, I planned to take the large public ferry across the harbor from Valletta to Birgu, but right beside it was a small traditional boat offering rides for only a euro more. It was impossible to resist. The boats today use motors, but they still retain the traditional dgħajsa design and the gondola-like oars once used to maneuver through the harbor waters.
Back at the apartment in Sliema, I made dinner and relaxed in the hot tub on the balcony before bed. I felt exhausted, but this was apparently the moment jet lag decided to fully attack. I struggled to fall asleep and ended up sleeping in the next morning.
