Instead, I spent my days wandering.
I explored the excellent Museum of Byzantine Culture, climbed the White Tower—the city’s iconic landmark and former Ottoman fortification—and wandered through Ano Poli, the Upper Town. This historic district survived the Great Fire of 1917 that destroyed much of Thessaloniki and still retains its winding streets, old stone houses, and sections of the ancient city walls. Everywhere I turned seemed to reveal another fragment of the city’s past.
















I ate well, listened to live music at a few different venues, and eventually found my regular spot: a café-bar called Dawou. It was run by a brother and sister who were incredibly welcoming. Business was a little slow during some afternoons, so we ended up chatting quite a bit.
I probably averaged 13,000 to 15,000 steps a day, though the pace never felt rushed. I enjoyed stops at coffee shops and cafes around the city with outdoor seating.